Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Platinum 3970EP-010 Black Dial
The Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref. 3970 was released in 1986, at the beginning of the 'Golden Age' of neo-vintage watchmaking that followed the end of the Quartz Crisis. Companies like Patek Philippe survived by pivoting towards luxury, and as a result was given a small amount of breathing space amidst the onslaught. When Patek Philippe released the 3970 (and the 3940 Perpetual Calendar) in the mid-80s, however, contemporary observers, while impressed with the watch itself, weren't particularly optimistic about its chances.
The 3970 was never a bestseller, both because of its complexity and price. Produced in four distinct series, the reference only saw production numbers of about 4,000 pieces across 18 years. With hindsight, it's easy to see how special this reference is - many consider it amongst the final iconic designs before the company transformed into the modern horological giant that it is today.
The reference is a tour de force in watch design. It condenses a vast amount of information (day, date, month. leap year, moonphase, 24-hour indicator, as well as the chronograph) into a 36mm case, yet never feels crowded. The chronograph pushers are perfectly proportioned for the case, and don't detract from the overall dressiness of the watch. The concave bezel adds a further layer of elegance to the watch by drawing the viewer's eye into the dial, and the deceptively simple lugs have a bevel to them that betray how much effort went into its design.
PATEK PHILIPPE
To many, Patek Philippe is the epitome of the high-end watchmaker. Throughout its nearly two centuries' of existence, it has weathered everything from the World Wars to the Quartz Crisis of the 1980s. Even today, it's widely acknowledged to be amongst the most successful and prestigious watchmakers, with its creations gracing wrists of everyone from bankers and politicians to rappers and actors.
Patek Philippe began its life as Patek, Czapek & Cie. in 1839 and made its name by making some of the most accurate watch movements. By the turn of the century, Patek was venturing into the realm of high complications, including split-seconds chronographs, perpetual calendars, and minute repeaters. The latter made it into wristwatch-form in 1924 as a piece unique for Ralph Teetor, the inventor of the cruise control function.
In 1932, the company ownership changed hands to the Stern family, who still run Patek Philippe. In that same year, the Calatrava wristwatch was introduced. By the 1970s, seeing the damage which the Quartz Crisis had done to the industry, Patek Philippe decided to introduce a bold new steel watch. Thus, the Nautilus was born.
Since then, the company has gone from strength to strength, solidifying its reputation as one of the finest Swiss watchmakers. From the highly-desirable stainless steel sports watches, to the famed high complications, down to the "humble" Calatrava, Patek Philippe proves that it can do it all.
LessThe Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref. 3970 was released in 1986, at the beginning of the 'Golden Age' of neo-vintage watchmaking that followed the end of the Quartz Crisis. Companies like Patek Philippe survived by pivoting towards luxury, and as a result was given a small amount of breathing space amidst the onslaught. When Patek Philippe released the 3970 (and the 3940 Perpetual Calendar) in the mid-80s, however, contemporary observers, while impressed with the watch itself, weren't particularly optimistic about its chances.
The 3970 was never a bestseller, both because of its complexity and price. Produced in four distinct series, the reference only saw production numbers of about 4,000 pieces across 18 years. With hindsight, it's easy to see how special this reference is - many consider it amongst the final iconic designs before the company transformed into the modern horological giant that it is today.
The reference is a tour de force in watch design. It condenses a vast amount of information (day, date, month. leap year, moonphase, 24-hour indicator, as well as the chronograph) into a 36mm case, yet never feels crowded. The chronograph pushers are perfectly proportioned for the case, and don't detract from the overall dressiness of the watch. The concave bezel adds a further layer of elegance to the watch by drawing the viewer's eye into the dial, and the deceptively simple lugs have a bevel to them that betray how much effort went into its design.
PATEK PHILIPPE
To many, Patek Philippe is the epitome of the high-end watchmaker. Throughout its nearly two centuries' of existence, it has weathered everything from the World Wars to the Quartz Crisis of the 1980s. Even today, it's widely acknowledged to be amongst the most successful and prestigious watchmakers, with its creations gracing wrists of everyone from bankers and politicians to rappers and actors.
Patek Philippe began its life as Patek, Czapek & Cie. in 1839 and made its name by making some of the most accurate watch movements. By the turn of the century, Patek was venturing into the realm of high complications, including split-seconds chronographs, perpetual calendars, and minute repeaters. The latter made it into wristwatch-form in 1924 as a piece unique for Ralph Teetor, the inventor of the cruise control function.
In 1932, the company ownership changed hands to the Stern family, who still run Patek Philippe. In that same year, the Calatrava wristwatch was introduced. By the 1970s, seeing the damage which the Quartz Crisis had done to the industry, Patek Philippe decided to introduce a bold new steel watch. Thus, the Nautilus was born.
Since then, the company has gone from strength to strength, solidifying its reputation as one of the finest Swiss watchmakers. From the highly-desirable stainless steel sports watches, to the famed high complications, down to the "humble" Calatrava, Patek Philippe proves that it can do it all.
As part of our commitment to transparency, we're showing you this watch on our timegrapher. Testing is done in six positions, covering how the watch is worn in daily use.
Timegraphers listen to the ticks which a movement make. Professional machines like ours can take more measurements, create a graph, and support more escapement types.
"Accuracy" refers to how many seconds a movement gains or loses each day. COSC standards require -4/+6 seconds a day, while vintage watches may read closer to -60/+60s.
"Amplitude" tells you how much the balance wheel is moving each rotation. Certain escapements have a higher amplitude, while some will have a lower value by default. A below-average reading for your watch's escapement suggests there is friction in the movement from a lack of lubrication.
"Beat error" is an indication of the alignment between the timekeeping components. In modern watches, a reading under to 1.0ms should be expected, while vintage watches may have a reading of up to 3.0ms.